Sasso Remenno is a huge and compact block that fell in Val Masino from the mountain above centuries ago, and it is considered the largest boulder in Europe. Its summit is a comfortable plateau covered with grass and birch and can be reached through different climbing routes, discovered in the course of several years starting in the ’20s. Today on Sasso Remenno and on its satellites can be counted more than 250 climbing routes of varying difficulty, and for its comfort and exposure is by sure the most popular crag in Lombardy. This map is an economical and detailed picture guide of this small but important corner of Valtellina, and includes still unpublished crags. If you have time to explore other wonderful places, you can find all the information you need on the guide “Valtellina Valchiavenna Engadina”. pages 2 language italian edition 2015
The idea for this guidebook comes from the wish to promote the so called “minor” areas of Valtellina and Val Chiavenna, often neglected due to the great popularity of Val Masino. It’s aim is to offer a valid alternative to climbers interested in new experiences. The areas listed are often scattered around the upper Val Chiavenna area up to Bormio and Val di Dentro, including the thriving Val Malenco and Val Gerola, excluding Val Masino and Val di Mello, with the addition of a thorough collection of all the small areas, often only known exclusively to the local climbers.
One of the best things about Valtellina and its territory is the great variety of its rock, granite, serpentine, verrucano and limestone, as well as the beauty of the areas in which the boulders lie, often immersed in multicoloured broadleaved cool woods up to over 2000 metres of altitude. The best periods for bouldering often coincide with autumn and winter, except for the Upper Valtellina area and the rifugio Zoia possible to visit even during summer due to its high altitude.
496 pages
language german / english / italian
edition 2020
A. Milani
Versante Sud
This is the new edition of the historic guide book “Valtellina, Valchiavenna and Engadina”, due to the enormous quantity of material, we have felt the need to divide it into two distinct parts, this operation was facilitated by the clear-cut geographical nature of the territory. This is how the volume was conceived, which after two years follows the Valchiavenna guide book, which has already become a best seller. Guido Lisignoli, after four editions, handed the job over to two youngsters: Simone Manzi who wrote the book in 2018, and Camilla Cerretti who wrote this new volume.
The river Adda runs down the entire Valtellina, and divides two mountain groups which are very different one from the other: the Western Rhaetian Alps and the Bergamo Alps. Thanks to this orographic abundance and to the length of the valley, a few kilometres away we find different types of rock: the Val Masino granite, the limestone of the upper Valley and the gneiss and schist of the lower and medium Valley, the serpentine of Val Malenco and the verrucano of Val Gerola. We are in a territory covered in rock which still needs to be discovered: near a well known structure known internationally as Sasso Remenno or lo Zoia in Val Malenco, there are many rock faces which are not well known or have never been taken into consideration, where new lines are continually being set up. There are many local climbers who have improved the territory making the crags safe and developing new sectors, and Simone Pedeferri is without a doubt one of the most active.
Finally a valley offering a wide range of areas and routes, to be chosen according to the weather forecast, to technical difficulties, to the mental effort required, to the motivation to walk and to the type of climbing. This is the guide book which becomes a bit like a recipe book for our holidays, where we choose a dish depending on the ingredients we wish to use, to guarantee an experience coinciding with our needs.
416 pages
language german
edition 2021
C. Cerretti
Versante Sud
The new edition 2025 of the climbing guide now includes 38 climbing areas, which are located around the city of Chiavenna. The choice of the areas was made purposefully by the author. The areas are distributed on cardinal points around the city of Chiavenna. According to the author, it is guaranteed that you can climb in Valchievenna at any time of the year, if you choose the appropriate sector (orientation of the wall as well as altitude above sea level are important).In the individual climbing areas you can find single pitches but also a lot of multi-pitch routes. The difficulties range from the 3rd to the 7th french grades. Whereby the majority can be found already in the 6th grad. All areas / sectors are well described. Supporting there are easy to understand pictograms and site plans. All topos and site plans are very lovingly drawn and leave no questions.The proceeds from the sale of the climbing guide will be invested in the renovation of the described routes or in new routes.88 pagesLanguage EnglishEdition 2025G. Lisignoli
All the crags in the area stretching from Valchiavenna to Engadin: more than seventy spots for a guidebook covering a wide area, offering climbing proposals for any level and any season.After a hyatus in bolting new crags and sectors, during the last 15 years the whole area has experienced a renaissance. Many new routes have been equipped, and new walls have been bolted – both crags, such as Uschione, just over Chiavenna, which has seen a dramatic increase in the number of routes, and multipitches, both high in the upper walls of the valleys and in the valley floor, such as the wonderful and sunny Parete di Strem, in Val Bodengo, presenting historical routes equipped starting from the 2000s by dedicated climbers like Paolo Cogliati and Nicola Noè.The area features important historical and natural attractions; its location, along the Maloja and Spluga passes, vouch for excellent touristic facilities.pages 400language germanedition 2018S. ManziVersante Sud
Why create a fifth edition? Almost 300 new lines and bringing back to life dozens of old ones for the latest editions of the Melloblocco are the main reasons. A further confirmation that this beautiful alpine valley is an inexhaustible source of boulders, where the potential for developing new lines is far from over.This new edition of Mello Boulder comes with new videos, of which there are almost 300 that include boulders of different difficulties and a wide variety of Valley sectors. Just use the QR codes and a simple app that can be downloaded for free on all smartphones. All you need is an internet connection and it is possible to view them anywhere.The guide book is aimed at the varied bouldering community: including those that want to try the more famous and hard lines, but especially for all those that love to climb on boulders and enjoy the moves and magnificent context in which they will become immersed. 656 pages Language: German Edition 2024 A. Pavan Versante Sud Area: an area in the Lombardy region of northern Italy, bordering Switzerland Rock: granite Season: all year round
Trad and sport climbing in the cradle of free climbing in Italy.No other valley in the Alps can match the Val di Mello. Steep walls at the top, a flat valley floor at the bottom, crisscrossed by the turquoise waters of the torrent. And a legendary place in the history of climbing: here, in the 1970s, a group of young people virtually reinvented climbing, creating routes on once impossible walls, amid imposing and powerful nature. This guide is also about that. A book with staying power, in which each route is presented with its character and power, whether pioneer work or still very young. From some of the pioneers we have written testimonies that tell of a time when alpinism and the way of living it were completely revolutionized - the cradle of free climbing in Italy can be found in Val di Mello.Reading the accounts of Masa, Merizzi, Miotti and Boscacci, one breathes a little of the light yet incisive air of those years. Above all, it takes you back to the point where it all began, where courage and creativity did not strive to be above it all, but were capable of pointing the way for generations to come. Reading here, then, means understanding and rediscovering a world of stone of incomparable quality.400 pagesLanguage GermanEdition 2023N. BartoliVersante Sud
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